Two Days on the Left Coast

Carolyn J. Rose

When I get an opportunity to go to the coast, I take it. No matter what the weather might be like, there will still be waves to watch, fried clams to eat, and agates to hunt.

So, even though the forecast calls for clouds and chilly temperatures, we pack up and head out with our friends Michael and Mia Lundergan. Thinking about what lies ahead makes the Portland traffic almost tolerable, and soon we’re at one of our usual stops—Mo’s. There are other choices for chowder on the Oregon coast, many other choices, and we can argue their merits all day long. But Mike’s father knew Mo, back when she first opened, and stopping off there is a tradition.

Bellies full, we comb a beach or two, getting our fill of fresh air and sunshine that defies the forecast before landing at a casino. Luck is with three of us. Not BIG luck, but enough luck to allow us each a small profit—profit we’ll spend at least three times the next day. Found money seems to burn a hole in a pocket faster than the cash you work for.

When the sun pops up again in the east, we head south, stopping at Goodwill and almost buying a mechanical talking turkey before laughing off the impulse. After combing a few beaches, we make it to Newport and find, to our delight, that Georgie’s has the artichoke-lime soup two of us have been known to dream about since our first encounter with it years ago. And—bonus!—we also spot a few whales blowing close in.

Stuffed once again, we head south for the Devil’s Churn, several more beaches, and a little shopping. By now wind is whipping the waves and each stop involves slapping on hats and zipping jackets. We find several genuine agates and a number of rocks we carry back to the car because we tell each other they’re interesting or unique or unusual. You’d almost think we’re out to raise their self-esteem.

We end the day eating another wonderful meal at Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay. The tide is coming in, but it isn’t full enough to send water spraying high in the air through blow holes. We watch for a time, then head back to our motel to take in the sunset. Here's an edited version of the sun being extinguished in the Pacific. Forgive the annoying logo of the free (ahem) software Mike used to cut it from it's original length. 

The next morning, souls renewed, we head home to mundane chores, less spectacular views, and meals that are more sensible for people who should be watching their calories and cholesterol.

Things you hate to admit

By Michael Nettleton 


If you’re a lifelong hacker on the golf course, as I am, it’s time for an honesty check. 

When Jordan Spieth, mounting another superhuman effort to lead the Master’s tournament by five strokes with only nine holes to play, stepped up to the eleventh tee, no bookie on the face of the earth would have taken an even money bet he wouldn’t cruise to his second win in a row at Augusta. And then on number ten an errant tee shot and a bogie. Okay, okay, so pobody’s nerfect. And a missed save on number eleven and the lead is cut to three. Still, the kid’s a machine, he’ll right the ship. Probably make two or three birdies on the way back to the clubhouse. And then. . . 

 Number twelve, a picturesque and relatively short par three over a stream.

Splash

Splash again

Into the sand, out of the sand. Two putts. Mark a quadruple bogey seven on the score card and put him three shots back on the leader board to a British kid who sounds like he just stepped out of the cast of the road show version of Oliver. Superman became Clark Kent before our very eyes. 

To his credit, Spieth made a valiant run to stage a comeback and handled the post tournament dog and pony show with a modicum of grace.  Tough to do when your world has blown up in your face.  At 22, a class act, that kid. I personally, would have snapped every club in my bag over my knee. 

Here’s where the honesty check comes in. Wasn’t there a part of you, a small green monster of envy and spite who was jumping up in the air and shouting “Yesssssss!” when Spieth melted down?

Because, for all of us who’ve been there (repeatedly for us weekenders) there’s reassurance in knowing that even the best in the world—people who’ve been playing since infancy, taken hundreds of hours of lessons and have an innate athletic ability we can only dream about—can go gunnysack just like we do. 

So, for those of us who’ve taken four shots to get out of a sand trap followed by four putts, thrown a gutter ball when our team needed five pins to win against our arch rivals, let a pop fly drop in front of us on the softball field, said exactly the wrong thing to that guy or girl we wanted to impress or forgotten our lines at a crucial moment during the big community theater production of One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, we can feel Jordan’s pain. And we thank him for helping us feel a little less terminally inept than nature has made us.  

Austrailian Adventure 2016, Or Mike and Carolyn Down Under

Saturday, March 5

We landed in Honolulu in the middle of the afternoon and arrived in Waikiki Beach in the middle of a street fair that had traffic snarled for a mile. Our cab driver cut down alleyways and through hotel lots, the meter clicking away. Finally we told him we’d walk the few blocks to our hotel. He’s probably still stuck at an intersection.

Sunday, March 6

After breakfast, we watched the surfers, then headed for the airport and a 10-hour flight to Sydney that took us across the International Date Line. We arrived on Monday, March 7^th, got a cab to our hotel (The Vibe, a nice little boutique place), had a drink in a bar conveniently located just off the lobby, and fell into bed.

Tuesday, March 8

Sydney was hot and humid, so we didn’t do much, saving our energy for a play at Sydney Opera House. 
 

We mastered the train to Circular Quay and enjoyed the walk to the famous landmark. We also enjoyed an excellent production of Tom Stoppard’s Arcadia by one of Australia's top theater companies.

 Wednesday, March 9

Another hot and humid day. We headed out early across Hyde Park, stopping at the Anzac Memorial dedicated to the Aussie and New Zealand forces that fought in two world wars and Vietnam. It is highly recommended. 

After that we stumbled through the Botanical Garden. It wasn’t long, however, before the heat drove us back to the pool at the hotel.

Thursday, March 10

With Carolyn battling a cold and allergies, we boarded a small bus for a trip to the Blue Mountains. First stop, morning tea in Leura. Yum. 

Second stop, Scenic World and a trip to the bottom of Jamison Valley on a spectacular tram and a mind-blowing return to the top on an inclined railway that traveled at such mind-blowing speed we had to ride it three times. Again, the heat was oppressive, so we didn’t do the full walk around the floor of the valley. Instead, we retreated to a café, bought a beer, and found a table beneath a ceiling fan. On the way back we stopped at the Featherdale Wildlife Park to check out koalas, wombats, bats, and a crocodile that made us appreciate security fencing. 

 After visiting the critters, we boarded a boat for a trip down the river to Circular Quay where we hopped a train to the hotel.

Friday, March 11

After playing three rounds of a game of Your Gate Has Been Changed at the Sydney Airport, we made it to the plane to Auckland. There, we went through another round of immigration and agricultural stations, took an expensive cab ride to our downtown hotel with daylight to spare, allowing us to check out the harbor.

Saturday, March 12

After breakfast at a bakery, a stroll around Auckland’s downtown, and some Hokey Pokey ice cream, we boarded the Noordam.

On board, we caught up with our friends Katlin and Gary. Once we’d located the important shipboard features (bars, restaurants, pools, the library, and the lounge where the BB King Blues band would play), we gathered aft to watch our wake as we got underway. Aft, as we learned from our sailor friend Gary is not an abbreviation for afternoon.

Sunday, March 13

When the ship docked at Tauranga, we boarded a bus for Hobbiton, the set built for The Lord of the Rings movies and refreshed and expanded for The Hobbit. Jackson’s attention to detail is amazing. With gardens, laundry on the line, and other little touches, it seemed as if the hobbits in residence had all gone over the hill for a picnic just moments before we arrived. 

The ginger beer and scones at The Green Dragon were delicious and the scenic drive to Hobbiton and back was a treat.

Monday, March 14

At Napier, a city rebuilt Art Deco style after a devastating earthquake, we took a ride on the Hawke’s Bay Express. The Express looks like a small train, but the locomotive is a tractor in disguise that successfully pulled several cars packed with tourists up hills and down again and along many of the city streets. When we got off, we strolled around the town, checking out the library, theater, outdoor art, statues, and bakeries.

Tuesday, March 15

In Wellington, we hiked around the harbor to the Te Papa Museum where we saw an amazing and powerful exhibition on Gallipoli. Where thousands of Australian and New Zealand Troops were killed during a pitched battle that accomplished almost nothing.

This astounding museum also featured paintings, photographs, Maori art, and displays about geology, and social history. Much like the Smithsonian, it’s really impossible to do justice to it in one day. Later, after checking out the local century-old theater, we met Loralee Hyde, a Facebook friend, for a drink at a waterfront tavern, then hiked back to the ship.

Wednesday, March 16

When we disembarked in Akaroa, we got right on a catamaran for a nature cruise around the harbor. Luck was with us and we spotted several Hector’s Dolphins, the smallest and rarest in the world. We also saw fur seals, Australasian gannets diving for fish, and blue penguins.

After the tour we walked around tiny Akaroa, again checking out the library and another old theater. We found many towns preserved a performing arts space that had been around since at least the start of the twentieth century.

 
Thursday, March 17

At Port Chalmers we boarded a bus for a trip through Dunedin and along the Otago Peninsula to see Yellow Eyed Penguins at a private reserve. We were fortunate to watch two young birds released into the sea after weeks of feeding to bring them up to weight. Both seemed hesitant to leave the kennel and take to the water. And, knowing their numbers are declining and many young birds won’t survive for long, we didn’t blame them.

Later, at the reserve’s hospital, we saw Erect-crested and Rockhopper penguins as well.

 On the way back, we detoured to see a Maori Marae, a meeting place, with spectacular carvings.

Friday, March 18

We cruised through three glacier-formed fjords on the west coast of New Zealand. The sky was clouding up and, although, the water was calm as we sailed through the steep-sided fjords, when we left shelter, the swells built steadily.

 
 Saturday, March 19 and Sunday, March 20

Because of what the cruise log later described as “near gale conditions,” we head north and west to the middle of the Tasman Sea before turning south for Tasmania. The Noordam was rocking and rolling, plunging into troughs, riding up on swells, and getting battered by winds and currents hitting us from the side. Spray broke over the windows of the Crow’s Nest Bar on deck 10, while down in the Vista Dining Room on deck 2, waiters struggled to pour wine and water and get plates on the tables. I suspect many diners lost their appetites or their meals, but we never reached for the seasickness meds or for the special baggies that appeared in racks all over the ship when the water got rough. Mike was battling a cold, but a visit to the ship’s nurse armed him with decongestants and cough medicines that saw him through.

Monday, March 21

The sea calmed and we reached Hobart, Tasmania. Hopping ashore, we explored the town, discovering many helpful people happy to chat while directing us toward a bank or the botanical garden. The architecture was and interesting mix of old and new. These are two of our favorites from our walkabout there. 

 One’s an office, the other the University administration building.

Tuesday, March 22

At sea all day, with the water calm, we played Scrabble with Katlin and Gary, attended a lecture on improving our memories, pigged out, and watched the shore slide by in the distance. Did I mention we attended a lecture on improving our memories?

 Wednesday, March 23

We docked at dawn in Melbourne and were treated to a Technicolor sunrise and the sight of five hot air balloons soaring over the city. 

We strolled along the harbor later on and then dedicated ourselves to reading and relaxing on our balcony while watching boats come and go.

Thursday, March 24

On our last day at sea we played a few final games of Scrabble, revisited our favorite foods at the buffet, packed our suitcases, and paid a final visit to the BB King band.

Friday, March 25

We used our shipboard passcards for the final time, disembarked, and boarded a bus for a tour of Sydney’s western suburbs, Manly Beach, and the Taronga Zoo. Conversation overheard there: Little Girl: “I want to see the kangaroos.” Mother: “No. We’re going to look at the elephants. You can see kangaroos in the back yard when we get home.”

 This pygmy hippo was Mike's favorite animal at the zoo. Reminded us of a production of The Compleat Shakespeare we once saw. Long story. Never mind.





 After a long delay while ticket agents counted heads again and again and we heard discussions about weight and balance, we took off 90 minutes late from Sydney. We sort of expected someone to be taken off the plane in handcuffs. But we were thankful it wasn't Mike. Fortunately, we made up most of that lost time in the air, survived more customs and agriculture questioning in Honolulu, found our gate (the Honolulu Airport can be more than a little confusing) and sank into our seats for what seemed like a relatively short flight home. Once there, we were picked up by The Viper (our Godson) and greeted by our little white dog. 

Were we happy to be home?


You bet.


Would we do it again?

You bet.