I’m not
sure whose idea the Rocky Mountain train ride was. Probably me, because I love trains.
But I have to say Carolyn got right on board (pun intended) with the idea.
In our
original conversations, we talked about taking the California Zephyr all the
way from its origin in Chicago to its final destination in Emeryville,
California. (Between Berkeley and Oakland.) But after some online research and
conversations with people who had espied the landscape between Chi-town and
Denver, we came to the conclusion that paying a premium to see hundreds of
miles of farmland might not be that exciting. Sorghum anyone?
So, we set up a trip that involved a sleeper car from Denver and
another from Emeryville to home in Vancouver. Rocky mountains, parts of Utah, Nevada, California and Oregon. Perfect, right?
The
flight was uneventful. My favorite four words to say after airline travel. Yes,
the airport in Portland was an immense pain in the patootie. And yes, we had to
huff and puff the length of Denver’s immense air terminal (It’s a mile high in
Denver. Air is emaciated.) to find the A train to the Amtrak station, but still
. . . uneventful. No hostile drunken passenger. No pilot announcement prefaced
with “Oh, shit,” no clocking a delivery truck on the way to the terminal. Uneventful.
Good thing, yes?
Union
Station in downtown Denver is old, high-ceilinged immense and multi-dimensional.
A wonder to behold.
Along with the Amtrak counters and tracks, there were half a dozen restaurants, an ice cream parlor, a coffee shop, pastry
and candy stands, and a classy bar. Oh, and a fully stocked book store.
Our
thinking for spending the extra money on a deluxe accomodation. Twofold? We could get out of bed, shower, dress, throw our stuff in our bags
and catch our train downstairs. Secondly. What the hell it's only money. Worth it? Without question. Hey,
we got a free ice cream, coffee, and a drink thrown in. The rooms are lovely,
service is attentive, and the food delectable. The Crawford had moved to near
the top of the list of places we’ve stayed. Check out the painted ceiling.
You just don’t see that at your average Motel 6.
A quick kudo here.
Carolyn found us carry-on size rolling bags
at ReTails, the Humane Society
thrift store she volunteers at.
The queen of space allotment, she cleverly
packed everything we needed.
Nice job, love of my life.
The next morning, we
boarded the train and were shown to our sleeper car by LaToya. The room was . .
. it was incredibly . . . the room was . . . very small.
It featured a couch
that made into a double bed and a pull-down top bunk. It also included a
combination toilet/shower that was . . . it was . . .
imagine a large phone
booth or a small closet.
As we set out, we noticed a feathered train afficionado on a nearby siding.
Have no fear, no gooses? geese? waterfowl were hurt on this journey.
The first night Carolyn gamely volunteered to take the
top bunk. She clambered up the ladder and flailed around with the covers until
she could approximate comfort. I could watch her from the lower bed using the
floor-to-ceiling mirror. Comically, (although she was less than amused) her thrashing reminded me of the baby feathered things we watch on a webcam. Hopefully the link will work.
The Royal Oaks Eagles
From our window and the
ones in the restaurant and glass-roofed observation car we had front row seats for the most spectacular scenery America has to offer.

There were several short stops in mountain communities to disgorge and those riding on grab a snatch a batch of
mountain air.
A warning. This trip is
not optimal for the chronically claustrophobic. Not only because of the scaled
back size of the loo/shower, but because of the railroad tunnels through the
hearts of some mountains.
This baby was
almost 7 miles along and took 15 minutes to pass through. I texted my sister
Lana to share the experience and imagined I could hear her screaming from 1500
miles away.
So, we rode and snacked on the nuts and chips Carolyn packed among the changes of clothing. I'm convinced there should be a special trophy for creative luggage space usage.
We were staggered by the scope and variety of the geology we saw. Occasionally we'd gasp. Probably because of the high-altitude scrimpy oxygen supply. Oh, an
in case you wondered there was still some snow in places.
Snow pack in the Rockies this year was below normal. Seems like a pattern, doesn't it?
The second day wasn’t
as scenic, but there were moments. Oooh! Ahhh!
We chugged into
Emeryville to be met and taken to dinner at a bayside seafood restaurant by
John, an old friend from radio days and his lovely wife Dena. After dining and conversational
catching up we boarded the northbound Coast Starlight and stuffed ourselves
into another petite (another way of saying tiny) sleeper tank and set off for
home.
That night, CJ elected
to share the double bed instead of the upper bunk. A wise choice. And in my
defense, I didn’t roll over and elbow her even once. In her defense she didn’t
turn and knee me in the goolies either.
Compared to the Rockies
the scenery in Northern California and the length of Central Oregon was pretty
vanilla. Not to say there weren’t some memorable stretches.
Our friend Merlene
picked us up at the Vancouver terminal (which could fit inside the bar at Union
Station in Denver) and ferried us to our place. There, we fell into the comfort
and non-jostling of our bed. There’s no place like home, Toto, There’s no place
like home.
The next day we
retrieved our version of Toto
And resumed our regular routine.
But as cramped and uncomfortable our train trip sometimes was, I know that I
still long to hear the sound of the conductor outside my window bellowing “All
abooooooard!!!”