When you’re miles from your next harbor and you see the crew tying down the deck chairs, you know the ship is in for some rocking and rolling courtesy of wind and waves.
But more about that later.
First, a detour to the Catskill Mountains where the leaves were putting on a fall show against a background of stone walls and steep hills.
We visited with Lorin and Shirley Rose for a few days and were delighted to be accepted at the daily Geezer Breakfast and Insult-fest at a wonderful place called Bread Alone.
Mike played something that vaguely resembled golf at a lovely Catskills Mountain course. Luckily, there were no life-threatening injuries and creative language skills were exhibited by all the players.
Before we wore out our welcome, we boarded a train for Montreal, rolling along through more incredible scenery. The weather turned cold and crisp, perfect for a walk around the city.
|Statue of Paul de Chomedey Maisonneuve Montreal Founder|
And then we hit the deck, boarding the Rotterdam for a two-week cruise that would cover 3,764 nautical miles and wind up in Tampa.
The next morning we woke up in Quebec and scaled the hill to the Plains of Abraham. It’s a tough climb for legs that have done 7 decades of walking, and it was a tough return to the ship because Carolyn took us about a mile out of our way.
On the plus side, Mike no longer has to endure the “Natty Bumpo” jokes about his sense of direction. The compensation was sights to see along the way and an encounter with two police officers who found great joy in agreeing that Mike was correct about the route we should have taken. Hi fives were enjoyed by 3 of the 4 people present.
Quebec had a lot of street art, much of it historical, but our favorite was this Salvador Dali installation outside the historic Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac.
The sunrise on the Gulf of St. Lawrence on the 15th was awesome—and so were the rising wind and mounting swells. That’s when the Captain announced we’d have to scratch Prince Edward Island and spend another day at sea. Making the most of the opportunity, Mike got into a poker tournament and won enough to cover our train tickets.
The storm abated and we made it to Sydney and made the most of the opportunity to pig out on a lobster roll and take a long walk. That evening we logged our first win at trivia, joining Gary and Sally from the St. Louis area and Alan and Diane from Ottawa to form a team Mike liked to call the Numpties. Note that a lobster roll differs from the similar sounding lobster role, which has to do with an actor, who, desperate for work, dressed up as a crustacean.
|Actor planning on firing his agent|
On Thursday we reached Halifax and, despite a brutal wind and flurries of snow, made it to the Citadel. The view from the crest of the hill was amazing, but when you’re losing feeling in your ears and fingers, it’s hard to appreciate history. We beat a quick retreat for the ship and bowls of hot soup.
Friday the 19th found us in Bar Harbor devouring another lobster roll, admiring the town’s library, and walking the less tourist-trodden streets.
|Quaint alleyway in Bar Harbor|
Then it was on to Boston and an immersion in Revolutionary War history at Lexington and Concord. Our guide was a touch gormless, but we sat in on a great talk by the park ranger at the Concord Bridge.
We followed our Minuteman tour with a stroll through Harvard Yard. A Harvard student informed us it was just a place full of old brick buildings that weren’t any smarter than old brick buildings anywhere else. Expect this guy to end up in the White House some day.
|Harvard Student Union|
Another storm kept us from Martha’s Vineyard, but the tradeoff was getting to New York earlier than planned and passing the Statue of Liberty in daylight instead of at night.
The skies were clear, but the wind was still vicious and so powerful that Carolyn was at its mercy and couldn’t stay on deck without getting a death grip on the railing. She clung to Mike all the way back inside, mumbling something about "my own personal anchor." Or words to that effect.
Monday the 22nd we took a walking tour of the Battery, Wall Street, and the 9/11 Memorial, a powerful place.
Our guide, a long-time city dweller, was terrific, melding the present with the past and personal recollections. One of the ironies is that the pools were designed as a place of quiet reflection but the din of conversation from tourists makes it a place of noisy reflection.
At Wall Street we go a picture of the symbolic Bull (surrounded by tourists taking selfies) and the little girl who stands nearby glaring at the bull.
One of our favorite buildings was this one which we thought looked like a game of Jenga.
|56 Leonard Street Apartments|
Sure enough, our guide said she didn’t know it’s official name, but Everybody calls the biggest building in Tribeca the “Jenga Building.”
The next day we cruised south and on Wednesday docked in Charleston Harbor. Pelicans flew past and dolphins surrounded the ship, diving and leaping in their search for snacks.
Our own search, after a walk to Battery Park and along streets lined with historic homes, took us to Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit for a thick, tasty, crumbly golden brown treat. We made no effort to go light on the butter. Calories don’t count while you’re on vacation, right?
Our day at sea on the way to the southernmost point in the continental U.S. was highlighted by a spectacular sunset off the Florida Coast, somewhere in the general vicinity of Miami.
Arriving in Hemingway country, Key West Florida, an event billed as Mardis Gras on steroids was in full swing.
The free-for-all featured some colorful and imaginative costumes.
Clothing seemed to be pretty much optional at the event, and not just because it was around 90 and humid. We’re starting a drive to supply mirrors to the needy Key Westerites who obviously didn’t have one to examine themselves in before stripping and slathering body paint hither and yon.
Since we had checked out our reflection that morning on board the Rotterdam, we rode the Conch Train around the city instead of frolicking alfresco, and then succumbed to the lure of conch fritters and chocolate-covered key lime pie on a stick. Damn the calories, full steam ahead. One slice of pie destroyed six months of swimming laps..
And then, after another day at sea and a third win at trivia, it was over and we docked in Tampa and made our way home.
We’ll remember a lot of things about our trip, and one of them will be the towel creatures that swarmed the deck one morning. More about that next time.